Q&A: India (Rajasthan)
Q.
My wife and
I just read your whirlwind tour.
Sounds fabulous. We too have limited time to see Rajasthan.Our two daughters
12 ad 17 will be joining us and I was wondering if I could ask you a few
questions?
Where (in Delhi) did you find your car and driver for hire? Certainly
sounds like a better idea than doing Rajasthan by train. How did you arrange
for your driver's accommodation? meals, etc. (of course I'm sure he took
care of himself; I really mean how did this work into the fee you paid
him to be your transport and guide?). Can you recommend any places in
particular that were either memorable or simply good stays and "clean"?
Any particulars would be highly appreciated.
A. Happy to help.
I absolutely agree that, given limited time, a car and driver can save
you a lot of headaches and hassle, allowing you to see much more of Rajasthan
in much less time -- and perhaps with a happier attitude, which is always
helpful.
Just so you have a base to start from, my driving tour began in Delhi
and went to Bikaner for a night (this was a looong drive, and if you don't
feel an overwhelming urge to get all the way to Jaisalmer, as I did, you
can still do camel treks from Bikaner and thus save yourself a day's driving,
which means you could then split up the Delhi-Bikaner leg and spend a
day exploring around Shekhawati -- north of Jaipur and known for its havelis).
From
Bikaner, we drove to Jaisalmer, down to Udaipur (another looong drive,
but the stop at Ranakpur was exquisite), up to Ranthambore Wildlife Sanctuary,
then to Jaipur, Keoladeo National Park, and Agra and the "Lost City"
on the way back to Delhi. Ten days total.
I booked the car through the Student Travel Information Centre, where
they were quite helpful. The car and driver (B.P. Yadav) came from Delhi
Tourist Taxi Company, though there are several reputable fleets in the
city -- any tour agency recommended by a good guidebook should have relationships
you can rely on. Check around with recommended tour agencies to compare
prices and bargain a bit. Where you want to go, number of days, mileage
covered, etc., will all impact your price. (Also check with your tour
agent to see what a reasonable tip might be these days, so you hold a
bit aside to give your driver at the end.)
Accommodations are easy. Your driver will have made this trip before and
can advise you on nice establishments. You can also "shop around"
once in a town, checking a few places to see what you prefer, and ask
your driver about places that your guidebook recommends. There's no dearth
of places to stay, in all price ranges, so no worries there! (Let me know
if you find anything that you particularly recommend, and I'll pass it
along to newsletter readers and web site visitors as a resource.)
The only time I found the accommodation issue frustrating was in walled
cities where the car was not allowed to park inside, but I wanted to stay
inside the walls -- then Yadav (my driver) would argue against us splitting
up -- 1) because he was responsible for me, and was worried about letting
a lone woman wander the streets, and 2) I suspect because of the arrangement
drivers have with the places tourists stay -- if he pulls up with someone
who rents a room (or two or three, in your case), he often can sleep and
eat there for "free" as part of the bargain for bringing them
business.
But none of this should impact your experience or expenses. The understanding
I gleaned from the tour agency and my driver and other drivers I met while
there was this: in one way or another (either as an "allowance"
or as part of their salary), drivers are paid by their employers such
that the price you pay up front for the car covers the driver's expenses
(and unexpected emergencies, such as a tire repair or something) -- you
never have to worry about this out of your own pocket once you've paid
for the car. However, it is in the drivers' best interests financially
to stay in "free" rooms where they can, or benefit from "free"
or discounted meals in the kitchens of roadside restaurants where you
eat lunch, for instance. But again, this all goes on "beneath the
radar," as it were, is already built into the system, and should
have no impact on your enjoyment or pocketbook once you've paid for the
car. It is simply how things work, like part of the landscape.
Much as I loved wandering around Jaisalmer and hiking up for a sunset
view overlooking the city, I'm not sure it's worth the drive if you don't
have time to break it up -- especially if you're trying to maintain a
fun family dynamic (my extended loop required a couple of 14-hour days,
and the car gets hot!). As I mentioned, you can enjoy a perfectly nice
camel trek in Bikaner, which saves a lot of driving. From there, perhaps
you could make your way down to Udaipur. While I didn't go there myself,
Jodhpur might make a nice stopover, and would still allow you to visit
Ranakpur (superb architecture -- an exquisite, and often-uncrowded spot)
on your way to Udaipur, where the City Palace was fascinating and I enjoyed
wandering the city (look for colorful murals in the back streets) and
overlooking Lake Pichola for sunset.
A place I didn't get to visit (time constraints), but desperately wanted
to (and it appeared just as marvelous as I'd hoped -- as we drove past
with me looking longingly out the window) was Bundi (near Kota). If you
have time to stop, be sure you let me know what I missed! Then up to Ranthambore
for tigers, and onward to Jaipur, where shopping is (by all accounts)
a must, and the City Palace and Amber Fort and Palace are well worth visiting
-- magnificent.
Onward to Keoladeo (if you like) -- I stayed at the Falcon Guesthouse
and liked it very much (clean, but budget accommodations, to be certain),
good food and they had bicycles for touring the nearby park. And of course,
Agra's Taj Mahal on the way back to Delhi. I found the Taj complex worth
visiting -- the Red Fort is nearby as well, and on the way to Agra, you
can stop at Fatehpur Sikri, the "Lost City," where I wandered
the mosque (free entrance), but opted out of paying to see the palace
complex -- since I was a bit overwhelmed with buildings and monuments
at that point and knew I still had to "do" the Taj that afternoon
-- but I hear it's lovely.
Wherever you end up going, I highly recommend getting yourselves to see
the insides and outsides of a few havelis and Jain temples -- the architecture
is intricate and breathtaking. If you like wildlife, I loved Ranthambore
(you can rent a jeep or go on a canter -- a large truck with seats, like
an open bus -- and go on a tiger and wildlife safari -- photo safari,
of course) and Keoladeo (hire a guide with a good pair of binoculars and
let him introduce you to the myriad bird life in the sanctuary).
Hope that all helps. I'll look forward to hearing your stories!
P.S. Just as a little disclaimer, things change rapidly in the world of travel, so my experiences, while offered up in the best spirit of traveler camaraderie, won't always reflect present reality. My top recommendation is to always decide for yourself where to stay and what to do based on current guidebooks, web research, government warnings -- and most especially feedback and suggestions from other travelers while you're there.
Copyright (c) 2004 Judy Wolf
About
the Author:
Judy Wolf (www.judywolf.com)
is a world traveler, freelance writer, speaker, and whitewater kayak instructor.
She's taken numerous, extended solo journeys around the world, traveling
by foot, bus, jeep, camel, truck, boat, train, plane, elephant, and bicycle
to over 30 countries on five continents. She's currently working on a
book about her most recent adventures…that is, when she's not plunging
off waterfalls or entertaining the dog.
FREE Newsletter
Sign
up for my free newsletter
Adventurous Life
and get
monthly updates on tips, links, stories & resources to inspire you to
lead the life you envy!
home
| travels | workshops
| college programs | speaking
| voice & acting | resources
| newsletter
profile | contact &
media kit
site
map | privacy policy
Copyright © 2001-04 Judy Wolf
